Posts Tagged ‘Filtration’

Pond pre-filters are usually encapsulated in a plastic case with some sort of foam rubber / filtration material surrounding it that filters out any debris before it enters your impeller and clogs up your pump. Pumps typically come equipped with a pre-filter when you buy. Some pumps do require you buy it and install it separately. It is vital for you to be cognizant of whether the pump comes with a pre-filter included prior to purchasing. Another variant to the pre-filter is called a pump sock. It’s typically netting, usually lined with a foam material that slips over your pump. Pump socks are not ideal because the pump can suck the bottom of the sock into the impeller which causes havoc and more work than if you had no pre-filter period. Pond filtration bio-filters are installed outside the pond with a UV light attached seems to offer the best of all worlds. This filters can be used for either commercial or personal use such as a leisure activity (Koi Pond applications). The clean things about bio-filters are that they keep blanket weed and / or string algae and most other common algae out of the pond. There are several brand offerings all of which provide for excellent operation. Bead type filters come in a canister full of beads that resemble a packed full jar of milk duds. The small “beads” function as surface growth sites for bacteria and to help keep your pond clear. UV lighting destroys terrible bacteria and suspended algae. Cleaning is simple thru a back-wash effort via a turn of the handle with very small water loss in the process. One potential downside to a system like this is cost. In some large pond applications the system can easily exceed $5,000 USD. Pond filtration biofilters are truly versatile whereby they can be installed in or out of the pond. There is also the option of having UV combined with the operation which only enhances it overall functioning. Bio-filters build up a colony of excellent bacteria that eat algae and develop your pond into a balanced ecosystem. Mechanical filters simply filter out suspended particulate matter from your pond. The mechanical filter requires monthly cleaning to wash out the debris it has removed. Mechanical filters are typically less expensive than bio-filters. For larger ponds we recommend a bio-filter housed outside the pond. Gravity feed provides for the water to be pumped into the filter which then drains out into your pond. Typically you will want to cover your system in some fashion (fake rock). By adding a dedicated pump for this filter you then have the option of making a splendid waterfall for your pond which will generate some nice natural noise. Bio filters can be left alone and cleaned yearly unless you feed your fish or have Koi. It is always a excellent thought to introduce aeration and make movement for ponds and waterfalls. It is possible to make your own pond filtration apparatus. You should use at least a 5 gallon nursery pot which can typically be bought at your local Lowes or Home Depot store. The filter you build will be a container of lava rocks or bio balls which will act as the filtration medium. It is vital to know that the water must cover the filter while the pond pump will be kept at ground level. You must get the water into the top of the filter and pull it out of the bottom with a small pond pump. This can be accomplished with a simple tap that attaches to the intake of the pump. An alternative method is to place the lava rock (or bio balls) into a mesh sack; then place the pump at the bottom of your filter apparatus with the bag on top. It is vital to make sure the entire system is full of water so the pump is primed and ready so when it is plugged in the system is fully functional. If you have no live fish, plants or debris which can get caught in the pump then it is possible to have no pond filtration. Without a filter we do recommend aeration and movement for all ponds and waterfalls to keep the water vibrant.

FILTRA? Is not the proper koi pond maintenance is an integral part of an appropriate size pool. Your pond's filter must be of superior quality, which can ensure that it is right. Filter to remove? Amon trash? ACO, nitrates in the water and koi fish. If these things are not removed, the Koi fish Podr? You get very sick and die. We do not? Want that to happen! There are two stages FILTRA? No pond, and the mechanic Biol Nico? Gico. ? FILTRA? Not a mechanic nica trash fish traps in the filter. Do you need? Delete this garbage by hand. If not removed, the bacteria give? Bears Podr? Come back into the water and give? Ar your koi. ? Well-b? FILTRA to describe the music? Biol N? Ity to Amon? Aco and perilous nitrates and convert them into compounds that are not so perilous to fish for you. Once you have selected a pond filter, cerci? Rese that is a quality product that offers the best FILTRA? N. You need? considerations to take? The size? or pond, the water volume, number of fish you have now and the amount you plot to be in the future, and do you need? confident that the filter does not require? a lot of maintenance. Do not let the price is a factor m? S vital to define the qu? filter to buy. ? You'll regret? sure. In determining your needs FILTRA aggregates Koi? N est? Make sure that all the above factors? n.? If the filter satisfies all these requirements, you do fish live? M no life? S Long, M? S pleased.

The OASE Filtral 5000 is a complete underwater pump, filter and UVC. Its compact design, and integrated features, significantly reduce the impact other forms of filters can have on the water garden. . .

Sponge filtration is an often overlooked type of filtration for freshwater aquarium or ponds and even marine aquariums . Many persons look past their simplicity as ineffective, but therein lies their quality. I have used them for my aquarium maintenance for 27 plus years with brilliant results. Here then is a list of their attributes:
[1] Simple to use, most run on very basic air pumps or powerheads. One of the best beginner aquarist filters due simplicity and cost. But sponge filters are also well loved with breeders and research facilities, as they are very efficient yet simple filters.
[2] Brilliant biological filtration, they are very porous and can maintain very large aerobic bacterial colonies in proportion to the space they occupy. Please note that not all materials used for sponge filters are equal, there are patents because of this! The Hydro Sponge Filter holds several patents for sponge filters for this very reason!
[3] Mechanical filtration, although they are not the best mechanical filters, they still do a excellent job for their small size and make brilliant secondary or primary filters when used in combination with other filters such as HOB, canister, or internal filters.
[4] Very few “dead” areas trapping pockets of noxious bacteria, unlike undergravel filters and even wet/dry filters (which in my experience are over rated).
[5] Simple to clean, simply remove the sponge and squeeze or rinse in ancient aquarium water or dechlorinated tap water. The advantage here is the aquarist is less likely to ignore cleaning the filter (unlike many complex filters), which can lead to organic build up, increasing nitrates and lowering KH and ph.
[6] Sponge filters are fantastic in marine aquariums in a couple of different ways; one way is in a sump (sometimes sideways) with a small power head pump (such as a Via Aqua 480); the other (usually in a reef application) was inside the aquarium with either an air pump or power head. The beauty of either application is they are simple to rinse out with used aquarium water, which in the reef application was especially useful in that I could dispose of allot of debris before it cycled and produced Nitrates. They are an brilliant compliment to “live rock” filtered reef aquariums.
[7] Probably the best choice of filtration for breeding tanks, hospital tanks, and even discus aquariums, due to the fact that they do not “suck” in baby or weak fish or attract noxious bacteria.
[8] For cichlid breeding they excell, as they are not easily disturbed by cichlids tendency to dig.
[9] Inexpensive
[10] Now available in larger sizes for aquariums over 60 gallons.
[11] Sponge filters can even be used in ponds. With the “Hydro Pond Filter”, simply attach a power head pump (such as a Via Aqua 2600), then run your return line wherever you like (waterfall, ECT). Or the Hydro Pond II can be run off a simple air pump. These filters can work on ponds up to 1500 gallons (or more with additional units).
[12] There also are sponge filters that are used as a “Pre-Filter” for intakes of canister, wet/dry, power filters and more. They offer increased bio-filtration to your existing system, as well as protection from baby fish, plants, or anemones from being sucked into the intake of your existing filter.
These pre-filter sponges are especially useful for HOB (power filters) as they increase the bio capacity (far more than bio wheels in experiments I have done) and retain the aerobic bio filtering bacteria during filter media changes. With out these Sponge pre-filters, HOB filters are poor to honest bio filters, with them they are brilliant.
[13] Sponge filters are fantastic for planted aquariums, they do not interfere with root structures and maintain a biological balance that ideal for planted aquariums.

Keeping a clear pond in the warm or hot summer months involves these key ingredients for proper filtration:
[1] ADEQUATE WATER CIRCULATION AND MOVEMENT.
A general principle (not a rule) of about 50-200 gph per 100 gallons can work for this (A lower proportional gph for large ponds, a higher proportional gph for small ponds). This can be achieved with more than one pump and even a large aeration device (air stone). As for the air stone, I find they are brilliant for vertical circulation, often better than water pumps of greater gph. A large double air pump such as a ReSun 9603, Million Air 600, Whisper 800, or Maxima with two air stones can circulate at a rate up to 500 gph. A way to check this is to place the air stone down a narrow PVC tube or aquarium lift tube, then place the top of the tube just above the water level and measure the rate the water fills up a gallon container (one gallon in 15 seconds= 240 gph).
A excellent water pump is the Via Aqua 2600, 3300 or 6500 hydrant pump. Both have sealed electromagnetic motors and ceramic shafts.
[2] Excellent FILTRATION.
I prefer pressurized pond filters such as the “Clear Stream” for their efficiency and ease of hiding in the ground. But there are many brilliant filters available.
For small ponds (and even medium-large), large sponge filters are brilliant bio filters and reasonable mechanical filters. They are inexpensive, simple to service, and simple to attach with either a power head pump or and air stone. There now is a specific Pond Sponge Filter called the”Hydro-Pond” there are two models; one air driven, one pump driven. They are useful up to 1500 gallons and more can be used for larger ponds or in combination with other filters.
Bio falls are also brilliant pond filters. I do not recommend the ancient style Becket or Pond Master Submersible filters; they clog easily, are hard to service, and are not efficient filters. Multiple types of filtration are also brilliant, such as a pressurized filter- bio falls combination, or a pressurized filter- sponge filter combination.
[3] PLANT FILTRATION (Often called Veggie Filters)
This is a very vital part of pond keeping and filtration. A well planted and diversified planted pond is VERY vital for clarity, pond and fish health, and even fish breeding. Any plant with a excellent root structure that grows quick and has the majority of their leaves above water is a excellent candidate to start with. I recommend water iris for their strong root structure, quick growth, fantastic nutrient absorption, and a fantastic place for baby fish (fry) to hide feed and grow. There are many other brilliant plants as well such as bull rush. Make sure these types of plants (plants with roots in water and leaves above) are planted in an area of excellent, but not strong water movement. This ensures that they will do their job as plant filters.
Other plants such as lilies and hyacinth are brilliant for nutrient removal too, but not at the rate of iris and similar plants. They are useful for shade, which will slow algae growth
[4] UV STERILIZATION.
Although not always necessary in a well planted, well shaded, well filter aquarium; they are still very useful. UVs help with algae control, disease prevention, and the Redox potential (which is vital for fish health and proper filtration). For the UV to properly function in a pond, the flow rate should not exceed 20-45 gph per watt of UVC. In larger ponds with high flow rates I recommend more than one UV sterilizer, with a by-pass from the main line, connected in PARELLEL not in line together. For this reason, I also do not recommend the well loved filters with built in UVs, as the flow rate is usually too high to work properly. A separate UV is always best! For more information about proper UV sterilization and how it works please visit this site; “WHY USE A UV STERILIZER”
Many times I have heard of complaints that their UV did not help with algae control, when I checked this client’s pond, I found inadequate filtration and an improperly installed UV sterilizer. Even a properly installed UV Sterilizer cannot over come poor filtration and a poorly planted pond. And many manufacturers make claims of high flow rates that are impossible for proper contact time.
[5] CLEANING (proper chemistry):
In a healthy pond, with a properly functioning nitrogen cycle, water changes can be minimal. I still recommend a water change of 10-20% per month on a healthy, fully functional pond. In a newer pond larger and more frequent changes may be necessary.
If your pond has a KH below 80 ppm and a pH below 7. 0, I would first look to possible causes. One common one is the buildup of organic mulm on the bottom of the pond. The decomposition of this will produce nitric acids which will affect the pH and KH. Since most pond keeper have koi or goldfish, this is vital to note, as both these fish do much better at a pH above 7. 2 and need the calcium provided by the KH for proper osmotic function. See “Proper Calcium, Magnesium and KH in Aquariums” for more information about Calcium KH, and GH.
If a lot of leaves fall to the bottom of the pond vacuuming them or raking them out is vital to prevent organic buildup.
Water changes also will help with pH and KH if your tap or well water is slightly alkaline and has a KH above 80 ppm.
A final note about KH, if your KH is below 80 ppm you will NOT have a healthy pond in the long term!
For much more, please read my vastly expanded Pond article with links to even more resources as well as pictures: A Clear Pond; Pond maintenance set-up, chemistry, filtration, predators and much much more.